1. Before installation
- Confirm the position is shadow-free — nothing above the panel (trees, buildings) at any time of day.
- Tools: shovels, spirit level, wrenches, multimeter, harness for work at height.
- Check the kit: pole, lamp head, panel, battery, controller, anchor bolts — all present and matching the configuration sheet.
2. Foundation (the step that decides everything)
- Excavation sizes: 6 m pole 600×600×800 mm; 8 m pole 700×700×1000 mm; 10 m pole 800×800×1200 mm. Increase by 20–30% in backfill, soft or frozen soil.
- Set the anchor-bolt cage (6 m poles: 4×M20; 8 m and above: 4×M24). Tape the threaded ends to keep concrete off, and level all four bolt tops with a spirit level.
- Pour C25 concrete and cure 3–5 days before erecting the pole.
A weak foundation is the main cause of fallen poles. Pour it solid, and never erect the pole inside the curing window.
3. Assembly and wiring
- Place the battery into the pole's battery box or internal compartment.
- Wire in controller order: battery → lamp head → panel. Never reverse polarity.
- Verify voltages with the multimeter, then tighten all terminals.
Note: connect battery first, then lamp head, panel last. Disassembly is the reverse — disconnect the panel first.
4. Erection and commissioning
- Lift the pole with a crane or tripod and align it over the anchor bolts.
- Tighten the nuts and check verticality with a spirit level.
- Cover the panel to simulate nightfall and confirm the lamp switches on automatically.
- Set the lighting profile — typically full output in the first half of the night, half power after.
Choosing the fixing method
| Method | Site | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cast concrete foundation | Shoulders, green belts, rural roads | Excavate → set anchor cage → C25 → cure. Most common; no erection during curing. |
| Direct burial | Dense soil, short stretches, tight budgets | Bury pole base 800–1000 mm with compacted gravel backfill. Weaker against wind; not recommended above 8 m. |
| Chemical / expansion anchors | Concrete roads, bridges, hard surfaces | Drill → clean → anchor → bolt the flange. Avoid rebar; hole depth follows anchor spec. |
| Bracket / wall mount | Walls, existing utility poles | Clamp or bracket plus anti-drop cable. Check wall strength against lamp weight first. |
In frozen or backfilled ground the foundation must sit below the frost line, or the pole tilts when the ground thaws in spring.
Crew and equipment planning
| Pole height | Crew | Equipment | Time per set* |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4–6 m | 2–3 people | Usually none needed | 40–60 min |
| 8 m | 3–4 people | Triad or small crane advised | 1–1.5 h |
| 10–12 m | 4 + 1 signalman | Crane required | 1.5–2 h |
*Excluding foundation works, which must be scheduled separately. At this pace a 2-person crew installs 5–8 six-metre sets per day; a 100-set village-road project realistically takes 15–20 days including foundations and curing. To compress the schedule, stage the work: pour all foundations first, assemble poles during curing, then lift them all.
What the installation fee should include
Reconcile this list before signing, to avoid surprises later: excavation and backfill, concrete and rebar, anchor cage setting and levelling, pole assembly and internal wiring, lifting and erection, lamp and panel mounting, controller commissioning, transport (extra-long sections charged per metre) and re-handling, work-at-height measures and crane shifts. Usually excluded: pavement cutting and reinstatement, green-belt relocation, cable trenching (grid models), grid-connection procedures. If the site needs them, say so up front.
After installation, if a light does not come on, follow the commissioning checks above — panel cover test, polarity, terminal torque — before assuming a fault. For a matching configuration, see the solar street light page or send us your site details.